A little discouraged after our first trip the Haitian neighborhood, we did more extensive research in order to find a good, authentic place to eat. Emerging from the Jarry metro line, the neighborhood was lively, filled with all sorts of ethnic stores and restaurants from, Indian to Portuguese. Tucked in a working-class neighborhood, Marché Méli-Mélo’s ethnic aroma welcomed us in. From the moment we walked into the store, everything appeared to be much cleaner, fresher, and welcoming. The store was bustling with Haitian customers of all ages, lined up for fresh fast-food to go.
As I meandered through the isles, many of the food products were similar to the first store, with the exception of the freshness and quality. The shelves were lined with products that were not typical of any American grocery store. One interesting product was plantain fufu flower which is used as a thickener for soups and gravies in addition to making dumplings. There were a multitude of spices to liven up the staple rice and beans. Cloves, garlic, pepper, bitter orange seasoning, parsley, cumin, cayenne, paprika, oregano, and curry were nicely packaged in containers throughout the store. As almost every meal is accompanied by or is made of rice and beans, giant bags of both were found throughout the store. Other staples of the Haitian diet including fish, dried cod, capelin, and shrimp were found in the produce isle. Méli-Mélo also sold canned sardines, salmon, and tuna. There were many oils and sauces to season the fish, beans, and rice, including hot pepper sauces and African red palm oil. Pre-made sauces were also for sale. One sauce, called the "Creole assortment" consisted of garlic, parsley, pepper, vegetable oil, leeks, and cilantro. Another interesting food was called pikliz, which consisted of cabbage, carrots, salt, and vinegar.
When it comes to sweets, the Haitians use a lot of coconut, sugar cane, and tropical fruits. There were a variety of coconut products that Haitians use to cook with, including: oil, milk, cream, and grated coconut. Pure sugar cane was for sale as well. Instead of having Quebec’s famous maple syrup for sale, they sold sugar cane syrup. There was also a great selection of passion fruit, guava, and mango jams instead of the typical strawberry or raspberry jams. A popular sweet drink called Akassan is made of corn, milk, sugar, and spices.
As we were wandering through the store, a boy named James approached us to ask if we were American. Talkative and friendly, he told us how he was born and raised in Haiti, but went to Florida for a better high school education. He recently moved to Montreal with his sister, as he hopes to go to university in Canada where it is much less expensive than the US. Fluent in three languages (French, English, and Creole), James loves living in Montréal because of all the cultures surrounding him. He is really happy to be living in Montreal, but continues to eat typical Haitian food. He told us how his favorite Haitian food is anything that contains meat: chicken, pork, of beef, he loves it all. He ended up ordering the same meal that we decided on, a common chicken and rice dish. The chicken was moist, tender, and had great flavor. The rice came with a nice sauce, giving it a good kick. The dish was quite large and rang up at about six dollars. Affordable and tasty, I would definitely recommend Marché Mélio-Mélo for a good quick bite to go. Thankfully, the food sat well with my stomach this time, as the improvement in quality and taste from the Foire Des Antilles market was vast.
Despite the bustling crowd, the woman working behind the counter was more than willing to explain to us what a quintessential Haitian food meal is. She recommended “Griot” (in French) or Griyo (in Creole). Griot is marinated pork, served alongside a very spicy sauce.
The energy, people, and food at Marché Méli-Mélo made us excited about learning about the Haitian diet and culture. With bustling crowds moving in and out, great food, and friendly people, Marché Méli-Mélo is the real face of the Haitian food and people.
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